There's something so satisfying about a good soapy lather. Whether you're washing your hair or washing the dishes, an abundance of frothy foam can give the impression that you're getting the job done. And it's often a sulfate detergent that helps create that lather.
With the beauty industry moving toward a softer approach minus harsh detergents, you might be wondering whether sulfates have fast gone out of fashion. Are sulfates bad for your hair? Can a sulfate-free shampoo truly offer a gentler cleanse, and how do you know what's best for your hair? We spoke to the experts and dove into the research to get to the bottom of the bubbles.
Key takeaways
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Sodium laureth sulfate is a common cleanser that creates lather and removes oil and buildup.
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For many people, it is fine; for others, it can feel stripping.
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Color-treated, curly, or sensitive-scalp hair may do better with sulfate-free.
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Sulfate-free is not automatically better, so read the whole formula.
What are sulfates?
Sulfates are essentially chemical cleansing agents—specifically, a type of salt—added to shampoos, body washes, and face cleansers to act as heavy-duty cleansers. When included in shampoos, they are designed to reduce the surface tension between your skin and the shampoo. Because a sulfate lowers the surface tension, it effectively helps remove dirt, oil, and any lingering dead skin cells.
What is Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS)?
Sodium lauryl sulfate (also known as sodium dodecyl sulfate) is a common surfactant in many health and beauty products. Often, hand soaps, face washes, and shampoos contain SLS to create suds. SLS has been deemed safe to use by experts on The Cosmetic Ingredient Review panel but has also been identified as a cause of skin irritation when left on the skin for long periods—especially for someone with existing conditions such as rosacea, a dry scalp, or irritating allergies.
Dermatologist Dr. Cory Gaskins, BSc, M.D., CCFP, explained what SLS actually does: "Sodium lauryl sulfate is a surfactant, detergent, and emulsifier used in thousands of cosmetic products. SLSs are known to cause skin irritation, dryness, and rashes. They can interfere with the skin's natural protein and don't always rinse well. In fact, SLS strips the skin of its natural goodness, which can lead to itchiness and irritation." In some cases, this extreme dryness can even exacerbate flakiness or dandruff.
What is Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES)?
Like sodium lauryl sulfate, sodium laureth sulfate (or ammonium lauryl sulfate) is a surfactant that produces a thick, rich lather when mixed with water. SLES is derived from SLS via ethoxylation, a process in which ethylene oxide is reacted with SLS to modify the compound.
As a result of this process, SLES is considered safer and less likely to strip natural oils harshly. Whether a product uses SLS or SLES, most commercial shampoos will contain the latter. "SLES is less likely to cause irritation and strip away natural oils from the skin than SLS," said Gaskins. "For this reason, SLES is often used in hair care products for people with sensitive skin or scalps."
Water and oil don't generally mix well, but SLES helps ingredients disperse evenly throughout strands. It helps cleanse the hair and skin and helps hands work products through the hair. It attracts natural oils like sebum, drawing them out so they can be rinsed away. Among the sulfates used in beauty products, sodium laureth sulfate is the most common because it's considered relatively milder and less likely to cause scalp irritation.
Risks and dangers of using SLES
High concentrations of SLS and SLES in your shampoo could potentially irritate existing conditions and trigger an allergic reaction. You may want to avoid sodium laureth sulfate if you have skin conditions, as you could experience a skin rash, hives, or swelling.
Regarding health, sulfates like SLES can be harsh on skin and hair. Plus, even though they're often not listed on ingredient labels, SLES may contain impurities from 1,4-dioxane, which has historically been linked to cancer. Scientific evidence has mostly debunked SLES as a substance that will directly cause cancer in and of itself, but the effects that petroleum and palm oil (used to create them) have on the environment are hard to deny.
How can sulfates impact hair?
These cleansers are often found in products for all hair types and can trigger some adverse effects. Using products that contain sulfates can be overly stripping. "Sulfates are harsh detergents that can cause hair to lose its natural oils, leading to frizz and dullness," stated Gaskins. "Sulfate-free shampoos are gentler on the scalp and hair, resulting in reduced irritation, softer hair, and less frizz."
Try a sulfate-free shampoo
If you are seeking SLS free options, GRO Revitalizing Shampoo is a beautifully formulated, non-toxic shampoo free of sulfates. It uses plant-powered ingredients that cleanse, restore, and penetrate the scalp to promote visibly thicker, fuller, and healthier-looking hair.
The vegan keratin (Karmatin™) in the shampoo smooths and strengthens. Even without sulfates, the formula still produces a gorgeous, bubbly lather, working just as well as a harsh clarifying shampoo but without the damage. In addition, wild-harvested marula, ximenia, and baobab oils nourish and moisturize the scalp without leaving behind an irritating residue.
Choose sulfate-free to avoid dry or frizzy hair
You definitely want to avoid sulfates if you have dry or damaged hair. Alongside the suds, they can strip away so much natural oil that they leave your hair dry, visibly damaged, and frizzy. And it's not just the strands; overly stripping cleansers can feel harsh on the entire hair and scalp ecosystem. So if you use sulfate-based formulas, be cautious about damaging your hair and make sure you balance it out with a super-nourishing conditioner. Better yet, simply avoid sulfates entirely to maintain moisture.
Sulfates fade color-treated hair
People with color-treated hair or naturally kinky textures might want to avoid sulfates because they're pretty strong cleansers. In fact, cleaning agents are often so strong that they can strip hair dye from the strands. Additionally, you might reduce the effects of a chemical treatment by using a sulfate shampoo afterward.
Benefits of sulfate-free shampoos
To maintain hair health and keep strands in tip-top condition, sulfate-free shampoos are a safer and less damaging option. You might not experience as much lather, but this is actually a good thing if your hair is dry, curly, or kinky. Some of the benefits of using a sulfate-free shampoo can include:
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Reduced frizz
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Reduced chance of irritation on the scalp
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Reduced chance of irritation around the hairline
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Hair that feels softer and more conditioned
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Curly hair that's left intact
The final word
Sulfates aren’t necessarily toxic or harmful to you, but it's always worth choosing the safest, most effective products to maintain the cosmetic integrity and well-being of your hair and scalp. VEGAMOUR's gentle, sulfate-free products work hard to care for your hair. Powered by potent plant actives, our clean formulas nourish the scalp and promote visibly thicker, fuller, and healthier-looking hair. Rather than rely on harsh detergents, choose products that are kind to the environment and leave your hair looking gorgeous and glossy for the long term!
FAQs
Is sodium laureth sulfate bad for your hair?
For most people it is not harmful, but it is a strong cleanser that can feel stripping, especially on color-treated or dry hair. Whether to avoid it depends on your hair and scalp.
Is sulfate-free shampoo better?
Not automatically. Sulfate-free can be gentler, but the overall formula matters more than any single ingredient.
What does clean mean on a hair product?
It should refer to a defined standard of ingredients that the brand excludes. Look for that standard stated clearly rather than the word on its own.
Photo credit: Brooke Cagle/UnSplash
